If you haven’t headed to the V&A’s “You Say You Want a Revolution” exhibition yet, then it’s well worth a visit: there’s plenty of iconic fashion and music to rhapsodise over, but also fascinating insights into how the Sixties shaped life – communications, ideology, politics, technology – as we know it today. But before you go rushing off to book your tickets – stop (in the name of love). You have until the end of February 2017 – which gives you more than enough time to get in the mood with an indulgent Swinging Sixties afternoon tea in the Chinoiserie Lounge at the Jumeirah Carlton Tower – and if you opt for one of the champagne packages, you’ll get tickets to the exhibition with your booking, to be used on any date and at any time until it closes.
Although linked in this way to the “Revolution” exhibition, there’s actually nothing terribly revolutionary about the afternoon tea offering – which is kind of nice really, because nostalgia is a big part of what makes looking back on the Sixties – and indeed, tucking into teatime treats – as pleasurable as it is. So choose your tea from the extensive tea menu and then think in terms of ‘twists’ rather than complete revamps – retro cheese and pineapple is reimagined as a milk bun with smoked Applewood cheddar, pineapple chutney and edible flowers, while a good old prawn cocktail sandwich – Atlantic prawns, baby gem and Marie Rose sauce – gets a zhoosh-up with three-coloured bread. Meanwhile, that staple of the 1960s dinner party – Duck à l’Orange – comes as duck liver parfait in a brioche bun, with pea shoots and orange.
The scones have a great texture – not too biscuity, not too cakey – and are pleasingly substantial, so whack on the jam and cream and forget about wriggling into that Mary Quant mini skirt for the moment. I’m not sure whether any etiquette as to what order an afternoon tea should be eaten in exists – should scones be consumed before the cakes, or after? – but in any case, I’d strongly suggest leaving the cakes until last, as they are just so exquisite to look at. Some are topped with tiny records, others with peace signs or the occasional pop-art “Boom!, while multi-coloured slogans such as “Peace” and “Love” emblazon the sides; they even have cute and clever names in keeping with the Sixties theme! There’s only so much looking and admiring that a greedy girl can do, however, so after photographing our treats from every angle – glass of rosé champagne placed cunningly in shot, naturally – we decided that we’d worked up enough of an appetite to valiantly try a bite (or two) of each one. A pastry tart topped with yuzu curd and meringue topped my charts – as well as being ‘kinkily’ named after one of my favourite 60s- era songs: Yuzu Really Got Me – it was light, soft, crunchy, tangy and sweet: an explosion of delicious. Strawberry Cake Forever was a humbler being, a simple sponge of vanilla buttercream and strawberry preserve – but no less scrumptious for that – while Swiss Rock and Roll wickedly blended dark chocolate, lemon sponge, mascarpone cream and fresh raspberries.
Fortunately the chairs and sofas at the Chinoiserie are fantastically plush and comfortable, and the staff are smilingly indulgent – so loll about for a while listening to the lilt of the resident harpist before checking out the Jumeirah’s mini Sixties exhibition, adjacent to the lounge. We’re absolutely convinced that Twiggy never ate like this – and we’re doubly certain that the loss was all hers.
Swinging Sixties Afternoon Tea is served between 3pm and 6pm daily at the Chinoiserie, Jumeirah Carlton Tower. The cost per person is £45 (with a glass of champagne and fresh strawberries: £55, with a glass of rosé champagne and fresh strawberries: £61)
Cadogan Place, London SW1X 9PY
You Say You Want a Revolution: Records & Rebels 1966-1970 is on the V&A until 26 February 2017 – www.vam.ac.uk